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Kenai Fjords
United States · Kenai Peninsula, Alaska

Kenai Fjords

Tidewater Glaciers & Resurrection Bay

A harbour town at the end of a road, wedged between the Harding Icefield and a bay full of otters. Boats leave at dawn for glaciers that drop into salt water; the light lasts until midnight and the season is short.

Kenai Peninsula, AlaskaUnited StatesCurrency: $Best months: May–Sep
A timing note — Kenai Fjords's best window is May–Sep: boat tours and bear season; the bay turns wild by October

Where you'll base yourself

SewardCooper LandingMoose PassGirdwood

Things to do

Mornings

Hike

Harding Icefield Trail

≈ 8 hrs · Free

Eight miles round trip, climbing about a thousand feet a mile through alder and heather to a lookout over a sheet of ice. Snow lingers high into July.

Boat

Kenai Fjords day cruise to Aialik Glacier

≈ 8 hrs · $260

Seven-plus hours out of Seward harbour into Aialik Bay. Captains pick Aialik or Holgate on the day, then idle among bergs while the ice cracks and drops.

Nature

Exit Glacier View Loop & Overlook

≈ 2 hrs · Free

Roadside year markers track the retreat. A one-mile accessible loop and a short overlook trail reach viewpoints; the ground below the toe is closed for flood risk.

Kayak

Resurrection Bay sea kayaking

≈ 4 hrs · $130

Paddle out from Lowell Point under cliffs streaked with waterfalls. Mornings are usually the flattest water of the day, and sea otters are common.

Fishing

Kenai River guided drift, Cooper Landing

≈ 6 hrs · $300

A glacier-fed river the colour of milky jade. Guides run drift boats for sockeye and rainbow trout; runs and regulations shift week by week.

Hike

Mount Marathon lower trail

≈ 3 hrs · Free

The mountain behind town, climbed every Fourth of July in a brutal race. The signed hiker's trail switchbacks up through spruce to open bowls above Seward.

Wildlife

Bear Creek Weir salmon watching

≈ 1 hr · Free

A short drive north of Seward, a fish weir where sockeye stack up in late summer. Free, unglamorous, and one of the easiest salmon views on the peninsula.

Afternoons

Aquarium

Alaska SeaLife Center

≈ 2.5 hrs · $35

Alaska's only public aquarium and marine rehabilitation centre, right on the waterfront. Puffins, Steller sea lions and a research floor you can see into.

Views

Alyeska Aerial Tram

≈ 2.5 hrs · $55

Girdwood's tram lifts you 2,300 feet above the valley to hanging glaciers and a view down Turnagain Arm. Summer tickets now cover two round trips.

Hike

Tonsina Point coastal walk

≈ 3 hrs · Free

From Lowell Point the Caines Head trail drops through rainforest to a grey-sand beach and a salmon creek. Time it with the tide before going further.

Wildlife

Russian River Falls trail

≈ 3 hrs · Free

An easy forest walk near Cooper Landing to viewing decks above a falls where sockeye hurl themselves upstream in summer. Bears use this valley heavily.

Nature

Byron Glacier and Portage Valley

≈ 3 hrs · Free

A mile of braided creek bed leads to snow caves and a hanging glacier. Begich Boggs Visitor Center on Portage Lake opens Thursday to Sunday in summer.

Stroll

Seward harbour and waterfront path

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

Walk the paved shoreline from the small boat harbour past the campground to the SeaLife Center, with fishing boats unloading and the bay wide open ahead.

Views

Kenai Lake at Moose Pass

≈ 2 hrs · Free

Thirty minutes north of Seward, a lake so silt-blue it looks dyed. Moose Pass is barely a village: a waterwheel, a general store, mountains on all sides.

Evenings

Dining

Dinner at The Cookery

≈ 2 hrs · $60

Seward's most ambitious kitchen, small and constantly full. Oysters, house pasta and whatever came off the boats. Walk-in only — arrive early in high season.

Dining

Seven Glaciers at Alyeska

≈ 3 hrs · $125

Ride the tram to a dining room at 2,300 feet with seven glaciers in view. A four-course tasting menu; advance reservations include the tram ride.

Stroll

Midnight-sun waterfront walk

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

Around the solstice Seward keeps usable light past 11pm. The waterfront path and Lowell Point road stay walkable long after dinner has ended.

Bar

Beers at Seward Brewing Company

≈ 2 hrs · $35

A two-storey brewpub on Fourth Avenue pouring its own beer alongside fried halibut and rockfish tacos. Seasonal: it shuts for much of the winter.

Bar

Live music at the Yukon Bar

≈ 2 hrs · $25

Dollar bills stapled to the ceiling and a small stage on Fourth Avenue. Live bands Friday and Saturday, with open mic and karaoke filling the other nights.

Views

Sunset at Lowell Point

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

Two miles of gravel road south of town ends at a stony beach facing the bay's mouth. Bald eagles, driftwood fires, and the ferry wake rolling in.

Dining

Dinner at Resurrection Roadhouse

≈ 2 hrs · $50

A high-ceilinged timber room out on Exit Glacier Road, part of Windsong Lodge. Big plates, long beer list, and the walk back under a bright sky.

Where to stay

Exit Glacier Road, Seward — near Seward Windsong LodgeThe neighborhood
Wilderness Lodge

Seward Windsong Lodge

Exit Glacier Road, Seward

Timber buildings scattered through spruce along the Resurrection River, ten minutes from town and on the road to Exit Glacier. Summer season only.

from ~$340/night
Island Lodge

Kenai Fjords Wilderness Lodge

Fox Island, Resurrection Bay

Eight waterfront cabins on Fox Island, twelve miles south of Seward and reachable only by sea. Packages cover the boat crossing and all three meals.

from ~$700/night
Cooper Landing, above the Kenai River — near Kenai Princess Wilderness LodgeThe neighborhood
River Lodge

Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge

Cooper Landing, above the Kenai River

Bungalow rooms with wood-burning stoves and private porches on a bluff over the Kenai River, plus the Rod & Reel restaurant. Open May to September.

from ~$300/night
Girdwood, Turnagain Arm — near The Hotel AlyeskaThe neighborhood
Mountain Resort

The Hotel Alyeska

Girdwood, Turnagain Arm

A chateau at the base of Mount Alyeska with its own tram, a saltwater pool and Nordic spa. The comfortable end of the trip, an hour from Anchorage.

from ~$420/night

Rates change — check the live price.

Where to eat

Photography shows the dishes and cuisine — representative, not from the restaurants themselves.

Modern seafood$$$

The Cookery

Fifth Avenue, downtown Seward

A tiny, ambitious room doing oysters, cured fish and handmade pasta. The best cooking in Seward — walk-in only, so come early or expect to wait.

Waterfront seafood$$$

Chinooks Waterfront Restaurant

Small Boat Harbour, Seward

Upstairs above the harbour with windows onto the docks. Halibut, rockfish and king crab, plus one of the better wine lists in town.

Thai$$

Woody's Thai Kitchen

Fourth Avenue, downtown Seward

Curries and noodles with Alaskan seafood folded in, from a Seward institution that grew out of a food cart. Warm, cheap and reliably busy.

Brewpub$$

Seward Brewing Company

Fourth Avenue, downtown Seward

House beer, fried halibut and rockfish tacos over two floors. A summer operation — it closes for a good stretch of the winter.

Roadhouse grill$$

Resurrection Roadhouse

Exit Glacier Road, Seward

Windsong Lodge's restaurant, a big timber room with pizza, ribs and steaks and a long draught list. Handy if you are staying out of town.

Fine dining$$$$

Seven Glaciers

Mount Alyeska, Girdwood

Reached only by tram, 2,300 feet up the mountain. A four-course tasting menu and a serious wine list, with glaciers out the window. Book weeks ahead.

Good to know

The season is short

Cruises, lodges and most Seward restaurants run roughly May to September. Outside that, the town shrinks hard and boat schedules thin to nothing.

Book the fjords cruise first

Full-day Aialik and Holgate sailings sell out weeks ahead in July. Pick your boat day first, then build the rest of the week around it.

Exit Glacier Road is seasonal

Cars cannot reach Exit Glacier from late October to mid-May. Parking fills between 10:30 and 15:30, and trails near the ice close on short notice.

Nothing is guaranteed

Whales, bears and calving ice are all likely, none promised. Fjord crossings get rough, and boats sometimes turn back short of the glaciers.

Layers, always

Expect rain and 50°F on the water in July. A waterproof shell, warm mid-layer, hat and gloves make the difference on an eight-hour deck day.

Packing list

  • Waterproof shell jacket, properly seam-sealed
  • Warm mid-layer fleece or down sweater
  • Hat and gloves, even in July
  • Waterproof trousers for boat decks
  • Broken-in waterproof hiking boots
  • Rubber boots for beaches and creek crossings
  • Motion-sickness tablets for the fjords crossing
  • Binoculars for whales and puffins
  • Sunglasses and high-SPF sunscreen for glare off ice
  • Insect repellent for inland trails
  • Sleep mask for the midnight sun
  • Dry bag for camera and phone
  • Thermos for long boat days
  • Trekking poles for the Harding Icefield climb
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