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New Orleans
United States · Louisiana

New Orleans

Jazz, Wrought Iron & the Mighty Mississippi

A city built on a river bend, where wrought-iron balconies shade Creole cottages and brass bands play for tips on street corners. Slow, humid, unhurried, and serious about three things: food, music and its own peculiar history.

LouisianaUnited StatesCurrency: $Best months: Oct–May
A timing note — New Orleans's best window is Oct–May: Mardi Gras and festival spring; summers are soupy

Where you'll base yourself

French QuarterCentral Business DistrictWarehouse DistrictGarden District

Things to do

Mornings

Landmark

Jackson Square & St. Louis Cathedral

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

The French Quarter's historic heart: Andrew Jackson's statue, tarot readers under old oaks, and the spires of America's oldest continuously active Catholic cathedral anchoring the square.

Museum

The National WWII Museum

≈ 3.5 hrs · $37

Congressionally designated as the country's official WWII museum, built here because New Orleans made the Higgins landing craft. The Road to Berlin and Road to Tokyo galleries fill a full morning.

Streetcar

St. Charles Avenue Streetcar Ride

≈ 2 hrs · $1

The oldest continuously operating streetcar line in the world, rattling under live oaks past Garden District mansions on wooden seats little changed since the 1920s.

History

Whitney Plantation

≈ 3 hrs · $32

The only Louisiana plantation museum told entirely from the perspective of the enslaved, with first-person narratives and memorial walls naming thousands. Book timed tickets ahead; guided and self-guided visits are both offered.

Swamp

Honey Island Swamp Tour

≈ 2.5 hrs · $70

A flat-bottomed boat through one of the least-disturbed river swamps in the country, with a Cajun guide pointing out alligators, herons and centuries-old cypress. Sightings are never guaranteed.

Park

Audubon Park and the Fly

≈ 2 hrs · Free

A live-oak loop around a golf course and lagoon in Uptown, ending at the riverside green space locals call the Fly, with a view of Mississippi ship traffic.

Museum

Ogden Museum of Southern Art

≈ 2 hrs · $15

The largest collection of Southern art anywhere, folk to contemporary, inside a Warehouse District building beside the Contemporary Arts Center. Thursday evenings add live local music.

Afternoons

Market

French Market & Riverfront Stroll

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

America's oldest public market, running six blocks from Jackson Square toward Frenchmen Street with produce stalls, spice vendors and flea-market tables, backing onto the Mississippi levee.

Walk

Garden District Walking Tour & Lafayette Cemetery No. 1

≈ 2 hrs · $25

Antebellum mansions behind iron fences on oak-shaded streets, with a stop at Lafayette Cemetery No. 1's above-ground tombs. A licensed guide adds history the architecture alone won't tell.

Museum

New Orleans Museum of Art & Besthoff Sculpture Garden

≈ 2.5 hrs · $23

A serious permanent collection inside City Park, though the real draw is the free sculpture garden's lagoon path past works by Rodin, Moore and Yayoi Kusama.

Tour

Mardi Gras World

≈ 1.5 hrs · $22

Blaine Kern's float-building warehouse on the Mississippi wharf, stacked with giant papier-mache parade props year-round. A guided walk explains how a season of parades gets built and stored.

Art

Studio Be Street Art Museum

≈ 1.5 hrs · $15

Artist Brandan 'BMike' Odums' 35,000-square-foot Bywater warehouse of murals confronting race and Black history in New Orleans. Open Wednesday to Sunday only; closed Monday and Tuesday.

Culture

Backstreet Cultural Museum, Treme

≈ 1.5 hrs · $25

A small, essential archive of Mardi Gras Indian suits, jazz funeral memorabilia and second-line ephemera in Treme, the neighbourhood most of it came from. Call ahead to confirm hours.

Museum

The Presbytere: Mardi Gras Exhibit

≈ 1.5 hrs · $11

One of Jackson Square's twin landmark buildings, now a Louisiana State Museum wing devoted to Mardi Gras costumes, throws and krewe history, with a sobering Katrina gallery upstairs; check the museum's site for periodic building-work closures.

Evenings

Music

Traditional Jazz at Preservation Hall

≈ 1 hr · $25

Forty-five-minute sets of traditional New Orleans jazz in a dim, un-air-conditioned room with no bar and no guaranteed seats. Buy tickets online ahead — the room is tiny and shows sell out.

Music

Frenchmen Street: Live Music at The Spotted Cat

≈ 2 hrs · $8

A cash-friendly shoebox room on Frenchmen Street with a one-drink minimum, where local swing and jazz bands play nightly to a room three deep at the bar. Tip the band generously too.

Cruise

Steamboat Natchez Jazz Dinner Cruise

≈ 2.5 hrs · $108

A genuine steam-powered paddlewheeler, one of the last on the river, sailing after dark with a live jazz trio and a buffet dinner while the skyline and bridges light up.

Views

Sunset at the Moonwalk & Crescent Park

≈ 1 hr · Free

A riverfront boardwalk giving an unimpeded view of the Mississippi's bend and passing tugboats. Walk the levee path into Crescent Park as the light drops and the heat breaks.

Bar

Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone

≈ 1.5 hrs · $15

A hand-carved bar that actually revolves, completing a slow lap every fifteen minutes, once a haunt of Faulkner and Capote. Arrive early; the rotation makes for a real wait at busy hours.

Tour

French Quarter Ghost & History Walking Tour

≈ 2 hrs · $30

An after-dark walk through the Quarter's cemeteries, courtyards and lamplit alleys, threading real history of yellow fever, voodoo practice and piracy with the ghost stories it's sold on.

Views

Rooftop Sunset at Hot Tin

≈ 1.5 hrs · $18

An eleventh-floor rooftop styled after a Tennessee Williams play, with a clear view of the Garden District, the river bend and the CBD skyline going gold at sunset.

Where to stay

Grande Dame

Hotel Monteleone

French Quarter

A Royal Street landmark run by the same family since 1886, famous for the rotating Carousel Bar and a roll call of literary guests from Faulkner to Hemingway.

from ~$320/night
Central Business District — near The Windsor CourtThe neighborhood
Luxury

The Windsor Court

Central Business District

A Forbes Four-Star, AAA Four-Diamond tower on Gravier Street, built around an English art collection and afternoon tea in the Polo Club Lounge. The CBD's top address since 1984.

from ~$450/night
Warehouse District — near Maison de la LuzThe neighborhood
Design Hotel

Maison de la Luz

Warehouse District

A 67-room townhouse-style hotel from the Ace Hotel team, all library nooks and a single communal dining table, steps from the Ogden Museum and the Arts District galleries.

from ~$400/night
Historic

The Pontchartrain Hotel

Garden District

A 1927 landmark on St. Charles Avenue, restored with the Hot Tin rooftop and the Bayou Bar downstairs. The streetcar stops right at the front door.

from ~$320/night

Rates change — check the live price.

Where to eat

Photography shows the dishes and cuisine — representative, not from the restaurants themselves.

Haute Creole$$$$

Commander's Palace

Garden District

The Brennan family's century-old Garden District flagship, still serving turtle soup and bread pudding souffle under a jazz brunch trio. Jacket suggested at dinner; reserve well ahead.

Creole$$

Dooky Chase's Restaurant

Treme

Leah Chase's Treme dining room, a civil-rights-era meeting place still serving fried chicken and gumbo z'herbes. Lunch Tuesday to Friday, dinner Friday and Saturday evenings; closed Sunday and Monday.

Beignets$

Cafe du Monde

French Quarter

Open since 1862 from early morning to around midnight, a green-and-white stand serving only beignets, chicory coffee and a few drinks. Expect a line and powdered sugar on everything.

Cajun$$$

Cochon

Warehouse District

Donald Link's nose-to-tail Cajun room near the Ogden Museum, built on a wood-fired oven and family recipes from Grand Coteau. The boudin and fried alligator are the ones to order.

BBQ Shrimp$$$

Pascal's Manale Restaurant

Uptown

Family-run since 1913 and the birthplace of New Orleans barbecue shrimp — butter, garlic and black pepper, no barbecue sauce involved. Now under Dickie Brennan & Co., the table hasn't changed.

Sandwiches$

Turkey and the Wolf

Irish Channel

Bon Appetit's America's Best New Restaurant of 2017, a scrappy Irish Channel counter whose fried bologna sandwich and collard-green melt rewrote expectations. No reservations; expect a wait.

Good to know

Hurricane season overlaps your trip

June through November is Atlantic hurricane season, with August-October the peak. Travel insurance and a flexible booking are worth it; serious storms are rare but disruptive when they hit.

August is brutally hot

Heat and humidity peak June through September, often past 90F with heavy afternoon storms. Front-load outdoor plans for morning, and expect a midday retreat into museums or a bar.

Cash for tips and covers

Street musicians, brass bands and many Frenchmen Street clubs run on cash tips rather than fixed cover charges. Keep small bills on hand; card-only won't work on the street.

Mardi Gras moves every year

Carnival's date shifts with Easter, landing anywhere from early February to early March. Hotel rates spike and parade routes close streets for weeks around it; book far ahead if visiting then.

Book plantation and dinner tours ahead

Whitney Plantation runs timed, guided-only entry that sells out on weekends, and Commander's Palace fills weeks out. Reserve both before you land, not after you arrive.

Packing list

  • Lightweight, breathable clothing — humidity is constant April through October
  • A compact rain jacket or umbrella for sudden afternoon storms
  • Comfortable shoes for uneven brick and flagstone sidewalks
  • Insect repellent for the swamp tour and evening walks
  • A wide-brimmed hat and strong sunscreen
  • Cash in small bills for street music and cover charges
  • A light sweater for over-air-conditioned restaurants and museums
  • One dressier outfit for a Commander's Palace or Windsor Court dinner
  • A portable fan or cooling towel for midsummer visits
  • Sunglasses for glare off the river and the streetcar windows
  • A refillable water bottle
  • A small daypack for market and museum days
  • Earplugs if you're sensitive to close-quarters brass band volume
  • A physical map or offline app — French Quarter blocks confuse GPS
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