Big Lagoon dawn kayak
Paddle a bamboo kayak into the sheer limestone amphitheatre of Big Lagoon before the tour boats arrive, when the water turns glass-still and herons work the shallows.
Last Frontier
Named the world's best island so many times the title feels redundant, Palawan strings limestone karsts, sunken World War II wrecks, and an underground river through jungle into a single archipelago — a place where the water is named for its clarity and every lagoon still feels newly discovered.
Paddle a bamboo kayak into the sheer limestone amphitheatre of Big Lagoon before the tour boats arrive, when the water turns glass-still and herons work the shallows.
Squeeze through a narrow gap in the cliff face into a hidden turquoise pool ringed by vertical karst walls, best swum at first light before the tour-boat current arrives.
Paddle by lamplight eight kilometres into a UNESCO World Heritage cave system past bat colonies and cathedral-scale limestone formations on one of the longest navigable underground rivers on earth.
Climb a wooden staircase over jagged karst to reach the country's cleanest lake, then swim past submerged limestone pillars in water so clear the cliffs seem to float.
Four uninterrupted kilometres of pale sand meet the Sulu Sea at this twin beach north of El Nido, nearly empty at sunrise but for a few fishermen hauling nets.
A steep 719-step staircase behind Coron town climbs to a giant white cross and a 360-degree view over the harbour's outrigger boats as the sky turns orange.
Glide a stand-up paddleboard through a tunnel of mangrove roots on the Iwahig River, spotting monitor lizards and kingfishers in water still cool from the night.
The classic El Nido boat route strings together Shimizu Island's coral wall, Secret Lagoon's hidden pool, and Seven Commandos Beach's coconut grove in a single outrigger-boat day.
Swim between two lagoons separated by a limestone wall, one warmer and murkier where fresh and salt water mix, the other startlingly cold and clear beneath overhanging cliffs.
A thermocline halfway down this crater lake means snorkellers feel the water temperature jump mid-stroke, while the jagged rock walls plunge to a floor divers rarely reach.
A dozen WWII Japanese naval wrecks lie scattered across Coron Bay in water shallow enough for snorkellers, coral now colonising the hulls of the Akitsushima and Okikawa Maru.
A curved stretch of sand a short tricycle ride from El Nido town, backed by simple beach bars serving grilled squid and cold San Miguel until the tide turns gold.
A quieter alternative to El Nido's crowded bay, where German Island's reef and Exotic Island's sandbar are shared with a handful of boats rather than a flotilla.
Hop between Starfish Island's shallow sandbar, tiny Luli Island that vanishes at high tide, and Cowrie Island's coral garden, all a short bangka ride from Puerto Princesa.
A hillside garden bakery famous for hopia and ube pandesal, with quirky dinosaur statues and city views that make it a favourite stop between the airport and the pier.
One of the few saltwater hot springs in the country, three stone pools fed by a volcanic source stay warm after dark, perfect for aching muscles after a day of diving.
A paddle-boat drifts silently under mangrove branches lit by thousands of synchronised fireflies, a Palawan ritual best done on a moonless night away from town lights.
The quieter beach just south of El Nido town lays out low tables in the sand at dusk, grilled catch of the day arriving as the sky over Bacuit Bay turns crimson.
El Nido's best sunset unfolds over a scatter of limestone islets from this west-facing beach, best watched with a bottle of Red Horse from one of the bamboo bars.
A cliffside bar above El Nido town serves cocktails on wooden decks stacked toward the water, the Bacuit Bay islets silhouetted as a local string band plays after dark.
Coron town's evening stalls grill fresh tanguigue and squid over charcoal beside carts of halo-halo, busiest around the plaza once the dive boats have all come in.
Families gather along the seafront promenade for barbecue skewers, buko juice, and karaoke drifting from open-air stalls as fishing boats bob at anchor just offshore.
A private island reachable only by Aman's own aircraft, its casitas scattered through coconut groves above a ring of untouched reef. Every stay comes with a golf buggy and a beach entirely your own.
The most exclusive of the El Nido Resorts group sits on a forested private island with a resident marine biologist, its beach opening onto coral gardens a few strokes from shore.
Stilted rooms sit between old-growth rainforest and a still lagoon inside the Bacuit archipelago, with a house reef good enough that most guests never leave the shoreline.
Palawan's answer to the Maldives, with thatched overwater villas on stilts above a shallow lagoon and a spa pavilion reached by its own private jetty.
Rates change — check the live price.
Photography shows the dishes and cuisine — representative, not from the restaurants themselves.
Remove your shoes at the door for a set seafood menu of the day's catch grilled, steamed and simmered in coconut milk — reservations are essential and phones stay off the table.
Built on stilts over the water with a retractable roof, this bayside institution serves crab, prawns and reef fish sold by weight straight from the tanks.
Wood-fired pizza and handmade pasta from a French-Italian kitchen right on the beachfront promenade, the wine list deeper than anywhere else in town.
El Nido's most romantic table serves French-accented seafood on a candlelit terrace above the sand, and the crab ravioli reliably sells out by 8pm.
Grilled skewers and cold beer on a hillside deck overlooking Bacuit Bay, best timed to arrive an hour before sunset for a table on the lower terrace.
Communal tables under thatched-roof huts — the seafood platter of grilled crab, fish, shrimp and squid in garlic butter is why dive crews never leave before dark.
El Nido's boat tours are labeled A through D by route rather than by lagoon name, and Tour A (Big and Small Lagoon) sells out first — book a day ahead through your accommodation.
El Nido and Coron sit on the same island chain but the coastal road is unpaved for hours; a 25-minute flight or the daily fastcraft is faster and far more comfortable.
Many marine park operators, including the Underground River and Bacuit Bay, now check for oxybenzone-free sunscreen before boarding, so pack a reef-safe brand rather than buying on arrival.
Almost every lagoon, island and the Underground River charges a small separate eco-tourism fee in cash, so carry plenty of small peso notes for each stop.
July through October brings squalls that can cancel boat tours with a day's notice, so build a buffer day into any Palawan itinerary during this stretch.