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The Ring of Kerry
Ireland · County Kerry

The Ring of Kerry

Turas an Chiarraí

A 179-kilometre loop of staggering coastal scenery — clifftop drives, stone-circle fields, and harbour villages where the mountains run straight into the Atlantic. Kerry moves at its own unhurried pace, and that is entirely the point.

County Kerry & the Wild Atlantic WayIrelandCurrency: €Best months: May–Sep
A timing note — The Ring of Kerry's best window is May–Sep: the Atlantic weather behaves best in early summer

Where you'll base yourself

KillarneyKenmareWatervilleSneem

Things to do

Mornings

Hike

Torc Waterfall & Old Weir Bridge walk

≈ 2 hrs · Free

An easy trail through ancient oak forest brings you to a twenty-metre cascade. Continue along the lakeshore to the Old Weir Bridge for reflections worth the extra mile.

Boat

Ross Castle lake rowboat

≈ 2.5 hrs · €35

Guided tour of the fifteenth-century tower house followed by a rowboat hour on Lough Leane — the mountains loom enormous on still mornings.

Jaunting

Gap of Dunloe jaunting car

≈ 4 hrs · €45

A horse-drawn jaunting car through the glacial valley between the MacGillycuddy's Reeks, past five lakes and under sandstone crags that block out the sky.

Island

Skellig Michael boat excursion

≈ 6 hrs · €120

A puffin colony and a sixth-century beehive monastery perched six hundred steps above the Atlantic. Weather-dependent; book months in advance.

⏰ Needs advance booking — reserve 3–6 months ahead
Beach

Derrynane Beach & abbey ruins

≈ 2.5 hrs · Free

A wide arc of shell-white sand backed by dunes and a ruined Augustinian abbey — the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell is steps away. Almost always empty before noon.

View

Ladies View & Moll's Gap scenic drive

≈ 2 hrs · Free

The panorama that stopped Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting in their tracks in 1861. Pull over at both viewpoints — the Upper Lake shimmers in the valley far below.

Culture

Muckross House and gardens tour

≈ 2.5 hrs · €10

This Victorian mansion sits within Killarney National Park's lakeside woodland, its rooms furnished as they were for a royal visit in 1861. Traditional jaunting cars wait outside for those who want to explore the grounds by pony and trap.

Afternoons

Cliffs

Kerry Cliffs at Portmagee

≈ 2 hrs · €6

Less famous than the Cliffs of Moher but arguably more dramatic — a 300-metre plunge with the twin Skellig rocks floating on the horizon.

Heights

Valentia Island & Geokaun Mountain

≈ 3 hrs · Free

Drive the short bridge crossing to this slate-quarried island, hike to the summit for views stretching to Dingle and the Skelligs, and explore the Victorian-era slate caverns.

Ruin

Ballinskelligs Beach & priory ruins

≈ 2.5 hrs · Free

Wild Atlantic coast at its most elemental — a dark-sand beach with the weathered stones of a twelfth-century priory at its edge and gannets diving offshore.

Heritage

Kenmare stone circle & artisan quarter

≈ 2 hrs · Free

A Bronze Age stone circle minutes from the market square, followed by a wander through Kenmare's independent craft shops, galleries and chocolatiers.

Village

Sneem village & sculpted gardens

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

Two colourful squares bisected by the River Sneem, with public sculpture gardens donated by international leaders who visited over the decades. Genuinely delightful.

Drive

Ring of Kerry coastal loop drive

≈ 5 hrs · Free

The full 179-kilometre circuit anticlockwise through Cahersiveen, Waterville and Kenmare — time the cliff sections for afternoon light and pull over freely.

History

Staigue Fort ancient ring fort

≈ 3 hrs · Free

A drystone ring fort nearly two thousand years old stands remarkably intact in a remote valley off the main Ring road, its walls thick enough to walk along. Few other visitors make the detour, leaving the site to the sheep and the silence.

Evenings

Music

Traditional music session at O'Connor's Bar

≈ 2.5 hrs · Free

Long wooden bar, low ceiling, fiddles and flutes — O'Connor's in Killarney runs the best spontaneous trad sessions most nights from nine. No cover, just buy a Guinness.

Sunset

Sunset at Bray Head, Valentia Island

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

Walk the path to the ruined watchtower above the western cliffs as the sun drops into the Atlantic. One of the finest sunset positions in Ireland, best July to September.

Dining

Seafood dinner in Kenmare

≈ 2.5 hrs · €65

Kenmare's Michelin-rated restaurants draw chefs from Dublin for a reason — local crab, Dingle Bay lobster and Kerry lamb in rooms of warm stone and candlelight.

Pub

Fireside pint at Kate Kearney's Cottage

≈ 2 hrs · €20

The gateway pub to the Gap of Dunloe — turf fire, local whiskey list, and the kind of unhurried conversation that explains why people fall permanently in love with Kerry.

Views

Stargazing beneath Kerry's Dark Sky Reserve

≈ 2 hrs · Free

The Iveragh Peninsula's lack of light pollution earned it Gold Tier Dark Sky Reserve status, and on a clear night the Milky Way is visible without any equipment at all. A guide with a telescope can usually be found on organised nights near Waterville for those wanting more than the naked eye.

Nature

Red deer watching at dusk in Killarney National Park

≈ 1.5 hrs · Free

Ireland's only native red deer herd roams the oak woods and open ground around the lakes of Killarney, and dusk draws them down from the higher slopes to graze. The light over Lough Leane at this hour is reason enough to come, even without a sighting.

Food & drink

Craft cider and chocolate tasting evening in Kenmare

≈ 1.5 hrs · €25

Small producers around Kenmare pair local farmhouse cider with handmade chocolate for an evening tasting that rarely makes it into guidebooks. It is a gentle, unhurried counterpoint to the seafood dinners the town is better known for.

Where to stay

Kenmare — near Park Hotel KenmareThe neighborhood
Grande Dame

Park Hotel Kenmare

Kenmare

Perched above Kenmare Bay since 1897, this Relais & Châteaux manor wraps guests in County Kerry tweed and candlelit dinners of Kerry lamb before a drawing-room fire under original oil portraits.

from ~€630/night
Kenmare River — near Sheen Falls LodgeThe neighborhood
Waterfront

Sheen Falls Lodge

Kenmare River

A floodlit cascade of the Sheen River tumbles past your terrace at this Kenmare estate where 300 private acres of salmon river, equestrian trails, and La Cascade restaurant await.

from ~€560/night
Killarney Lakes — near The Europe Hotel & ResortThe neighborhood
Resort

The Europe Hotel & Resort

Killarney Lakes

Floor-to-ceiling glass frames a private Killarney National Park lakeshore at The Europe, home to the ESPA Spa's infinity vitality pool with uninterrupted McGillycuddy's Reeks panoramas.

from ~€490/night
Heritage

Killarney Park Hotel

Killarney Town

Behind a vine-draped Victorian facade, the Killarney Park delivers white-glove butler service, a heated indoor pool, and evening horse-drawn jaunting-car transfers to lakeside picnic spots.

from ~€430/night

Rates change — check the live price.

Where to eat

Photography shows the dishes and cuisine — representative, not from the restaurants themselves.

Fine dining€€€

Mulcahy's

Main Street, Kenmare

Bruce and Laura Mulcahy's Michelin-listed dining room has anchored Kenmare's table since 1995 — Kerry beef, freshly landed Kenmare Bay seafood, and a deconstructed fish pie that draws admirers from across the peninsula every evening.

Gastropub€€

Nick's Restaurant & Piano Bar

Killorglin

Killarney institution for Kerry lamb stew, live traditional music and whiskey after — a full Kerry evening under one roof.

Seafood€€€

The Boathouse, Dromquinna

Near Kenmare

Waterside terrace directly above Kenmare Bay — crab claws and lobster pulled from local pots that same morning. Book for sunset.

Ice cream

Murphy's Ice Cream

Killarney & Kenmare

Dingle-made, Kerry-loved: wild flavours including sea salt and Dingle gin. The brown bread ice cream is non-negotiable.

Breakfast café

Jam

Kenmare

The best eggs in Kerry on sourdough from a gleaming open kitchen. Arrive early; the queue forms before nine.

Bar€€

The Quays Bar

Kenmare

Old stone bar with an impressive list of Irish micro-distillery bottles, local craft ales and a terrace overlooking the estuary.

Good to know

Drive anticlockwise

Coaches travel clockwise — going the opposite way keeps you on the scenic outer lane and avoids meeting tour buses on single-track roads.

Book Skellig well ahead

Licensed boat operators have limited daily permits; Skellig Michael trips sell out months in advance and are cancelled in bad weather — have a backup day.

Weather changes fast

Pack a good waterproof regardless of the forecast; a wet Kerry morning usually clears to brilliant afternoon sunshine within a couple of hours.

Carry small change

Some car parks, coastal viewpoints and farm path gates charge a small cash fee — keep coins in the glove box at all times.

Pubs, not clubs

Kerry nightlife is traditional music in dark-wood bars; don't arrive before 9pm and don't rush the musicians with requests — let the session find its own shape.

Packing list

  • Waterproof jacket (essential)
  • Sturdy walking boots
  • Layering fleece or mid-layer
  • Swimwear for wild swimming
  • Light hiking daypack
  • Reusable water bottle
  • Power adapter (Type G)
  • Binoculars for the Skelligs
  • Camera or extra phone battery
  • Sun cream (for rare sunny days)
  • Comfortable driving clothes
  • Cash (€) in small notes
  • Scarf & lightweight beanie
  • Motion-sickness tablets for the boat
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